318 missing and stalling once warmed up and at cruise

[1] Pretty sure the Blaster 2 requires a 0.8 ohm bal res. Stock is 0.5 ohm. However, I doubt this is the problem, though possible.
[2] Vac adv. Is it connected? If yes: every time it operates, it flexes the p/up wires & eventually they break. This could explain why it fires up ok after stalling: wires have moved & contact has been restored. To test: disconnect 2 pin socket; measure resistance while wiggling wires; should be 100-400 ohms.
[3] Whistle; while it is whistling, dribble some engine oil onto the t/shaft & see it the noise changes. To confirm where the air leak is.
[4] I would p*ss off the Holley & fit a Edel 625 AFB or AVS2.
Hey Bewy, thanks for your input... Vac adv is connected and I shall check that out. I will also test the throttle shaft with some oil (so far I have only tried spraying the shaft with car cleaner, which only very slightly lowers the idle when doing so, and I have tested everywhere else on the carb, with no effect)
You're not the first one to suggest that I should go Eddy, and that was going to be my initial plan... What's your thoughts though , if I was to stroke my engine in near future to a 390, keeping the iron heads?