Tunnel ram or no tunnel ram...

Generally if you have enough initial you can get them to idle around 13.5 range in neutral. It’ll put it around 14.0 in gear. If the idle circuit is set up right should only drop around 200 rpm. I target cruise ratio’s of mid to high 13’s low 14’s. They will cruise leaner but this seems to work real well IMO. Then you have to work on all the transition points. I personally would run PV’s as well. It’s a great tool to tune for street use. Not knowing what all your carb set up is I would recommend pulling them down and getting a baseline of all the orifice and bleed sizes. Also check to see if they have a transfer slot restriction installed. I write all that stuff down and keep track as I make changes. Gives you a baseline and a road map of where you’ve been and helps with deciding where you need to go. Others may or may not agree.
I have all the specs from Gary Williams. Just gave him stamped number and he told me all about them. They were built for smaller engine with more compression so they are pretty close. When I drove the car yesterday wot was about 11.5, cruise was too lean but after I shut the secondary throttle blades I had it at between 13.8 and 14.2 which is what I had with single dominator so really can’t complain. I know the values I had well.
I went down to 78 primary and left 82 in secondary but it was raining today so I could not test it.
These carbs have 76iab which I don’t like. I want to try smaller to increase the signal on idle circuits, this way I will have better primary throttle blade position I hope.
Now I have to wait 2 weeks for air bleeds…
Weather is going to be nice tomorrow so I will see what primary jets change did.