Suspension upgrades

As 72Blu laid out is the most cost effective way to go. Putting expensive lip stick on a pig does not make a princess.

I have FirmFeel’s setup on my 72 which is tube UCA’s, boxed LCA’s, heavy duty strut rods, greaseable LCA pivot pins, large sway bars and 1.03 T bars up front, with 73 up brakes, 73 up drag link and heavy duty tie rods with 20-1 manual steering. Out back SS springs, 1 inch lowering blocks, sway bar, pinion snubber, and bilstine RCD shocks all around. The FirmFeel stuff is all “stock style”. Currently my 340 is a square at 390 crank HP and 385 TQ, pushing through a 4 speed with gear vendor to 3.91 rear gears to some short *** Falken 225/55/16’s. This will be changing this winter, (3.73, 18 inch rims with 26 or so inch tires, cam / head swap, frame connectors, torque boxes, panhard bar, floor supports and frame gussets, hidden 10 point cage in planning stage) The car is to 100 in a hurry, handles the corners very well, is planted and very predicable in what it is going to do when your on it and sticks with the 200 tread ware Falkens. Stops well with the 73 up single puck brakes. I’ve built my car to be a corner carver and to do some auto X, maybe a track day here and there when I get some time.

So all that said, pick what you want out of your car, and ask questions to help point you in the direction of a finished driver( they are never finished)

As for the trans, both the 727 and 904 are very good and can be built to hold a bunch of HP. Build what ya have. People have used 46RH and 42RH aka 727 with over drive and 904 with over drive from 90’s rams and Dakotas. The RE’s trans are electric and need a controller to shift into 4th aka overdrive where the RH are still hydro controlled. Some tunnel work maybe necessary to fit.

And you can figure that about half the cost will be parts and the other half will be labor.