When you get the jouncing and rebounding working smoothly using the adjustable strut rods, taking in consideration the factory tolerances, do you ever find any appreciable set-back?
So on my cars anyway what I've found is that the adjustable strut rods have ended up being a bit shorter than factory. Which would tend to make the caster more positive, which is usually what you want for radials.
But there's a lot more that goes into that, like all the cars I've run adjustable strut rods on are lowered close to 2", use poly or Delrin LCA bushings, FMJ spindles, tubular/adjustable UCA's, etc. Heck on my Duster I've completely changed the overall range of the suspension travel. I lowered the car about 2", then shortened the lower bump stops and raised the height of the upper bump stops so that the new ride height is still close to the middle of the range of travel. Which means the control arm angles at the ends of the range of travel are different from what they are from the factory.
Bottom line is that adjustable strut rods are used so you can adjust the length of the strut rod so that it matches the rest of your suspension geometry. Not so you can use the strut rod to adjust the geometry. The goal is to set the length so that there's no binding in the movement of the LCA, not to increase caster.