Hydraulic roller lifter questions (LA 318)

kdeboy said
Thanks for the explanation, that makes sense. I'll be running a scraper and a fancy oil pan. I don't want to get too wild with the cam since it's going into a street driven car. Was kind of thinking that reducing parasitic losses as much as possible would make up (at least a little bit) some of the power given away by running a fairly mild cam. I might go up to a Comp 230/236 but probably no higher than that. Rest of the combo will be Speedmaster heads (hopefully reworked by IMM), 10-10.5 compression ratio, Performer RPM intake, and TTI stepped headers. Still trying to figure out what carb to put on it. It'll be going into either a 66 Barracuda with a 5-speed or a 64 Valiant with a 904. If the Valiant gets it, I'll get a converter to match the engine. Either car will get rear gears to match. Also, it needs to run on 91 octane since that's the best I can get where I live.

With a scraper and fancy pan, you could definitely see some gains in the upper rev range.

For a street car I'm not sure it would ever be obvious, but no reason to give it up either.

I'm also pretty sure that most oil is drained back to the sump at the rear of the cam in the lifter valley, which is away from most of the crank/rods.

Also, I'd be willing to bet the amount of bleed from the lifter bores is going to be greater than the pushrods would add. Especially since pushrod oil should wind up mostly in the head, not squirting straight back down to the valley.

I could be wrong, just pointing out why it doesn't seem like an issue worth focusing on. Also, not sure if there are even hydraulic rollers available without oil through. I've not seen them, but I'm not an authority by any means either.