Up Graded - Performance Damper when do you do that?

Question(s),
1) at what point does it make good sense to move from a stock style to a genuine performance damper?
and then,
2) Dampers can be elastomer, fluid or friction. Why chose one over the other?

some background, my car is a 68 Barracuda with a built Slant Six, approx. 265 HP, NA, MPFI, long tube headers, windage tray, crank scraper, baffled oil pan, circle track cam grind, ported, OS valves, 190 psi cranking compression, last year light cast crank, light weight 2.2L OS pistons, light weight K1 long rods. Built 904 transmission, 3:55 rear gear, 8.75 cone sure grip.
The engine is a last year 1987 slant, the last year slants have the cast cranks counterweights very much reduced in size from the early cast crank slants (1977).

I run a max of 6200 RPM. Use the car for drag racing and autocross. I when drag racing I will shift at 6000 to 6200 RPM. I have only ran two Autocross events, but I found myself hanging the car at 3500 to 6000 RPM cycling up and down, for much of the course, maybe 45 to 60 seconds at a time. The car is street driven and I drive it to and from the events. Some events are local and some are cross county.

The current damper is a new PowerBond unit. Looks like a well-built piece, but lately there are times when I worry over that long six-cylinder light weight cast crank shaft and I wonder if I should upgrade the damper.
I know that Romac has two levels of a slant six specific damper (elastomer) , and I have a friend that I may be able to talk out of a Fischer Performance Slant six damper (friction).

Thoughts and recommendations are appreciated.