It was running ok, now it’s terrible, I need help!!!

Wow, all of this information is a lot to absorb.
Today I pulled the plugs and distributor (needed to center the bottom screw). I noticed what looked like some carbon scoring inside the cap so ordered a new cap and rotor. I then did a compression test. 4 cylinders read 130 lbs 1 @ 135 lbs and one at 127lbs.
I then tried to find TDC again, ( it did slip)so I could check the timing. I put everything back together with the new cap and rotor. The wires and plugs are all new. I noted that all plugs looked identical and clean.
I then started the engine, it popped like crazy, but settled down enough to adjust the timing. The timing light and mark are steady, and increase smoothly with increased engine speed. I set timing with the vacuum hose removed.
I don’t know much about slant 6’s but I would expect a very smooth idle. I think this engine is a bit rough, I pulled each spark plug wire, one at a time and found that each one caused the idle speed to decrease and the engine to idle rougher, except for #3 which seemed to cause little change. #3 is also the cylindar that had 127 lbs compression. (Still within specs).
I took the car for a spin. It still popped when I first accelerated but is smoothed out and accelerated up to about 50 mph. When I took my foot off the gas it started popping as the car slowed down.
Since the popping seems to happen when the accelerator pump is engaged, could I have to much fuel? It’s so hard to tell wether it’s a fuel or ignition problem.
I really appreciate all of you input
Bill