LA blocks

.040" should be fine, but I always sonic-check a block these days.
I had a standard-bore 318 that wouldn't have safely withstood .020" halfway down #2 in the 9 o'clock position. Otherwise, it would've gone .060" easily. A few years ago, one of the Engine Masters Vintage class entries was a Poly 318 that used an LA block (he couldn't find a proper Poly) and the builder claimed .090" was rarely an issue on 318s through '76 or so. Would I do it? No. I agree with the others that have stated keep the walls as thick and rigid as possible. A couple of cubes will not make up for wall flex. The 340 for my Challenger is only .020" over because it was clean there.

If you're hanging around the kind of people that refer to their 350 and 400 Chevrolets as "355" and "406" just because it's been bored .030", find smarter friends (or more confident in their manhood). I've never heard a Mopar guy say he's got a "four-forty six" unless it was immediately followed by "pack". :p A .040"-over 360 is still a 360 to me.
a Mopar 408 or 416 is recognized as a stroked 360 or 340 small block, a 400 is a smog B block 400. I dont know anyone that's gonna still call his 4" stroked 360 a '360'.
The story goes that the early 360 had more cyl wall thickness because the early 360 was a 340 mold with 360 mains?????
What i do know is that my 68 340 block was bored .060 over and my stupid arss shove a intake valve thew the cyl wall.............the hole reviled a paper thin........ok ok maybe .010 to .015 thow thick.
Eng over headed easy
new block bored over 30 and all else the same (Different head, but both 360 heads) and no over heating issue anymore.......coincident?
I sold a .060 over 340 to someone. He bought it. Bores looked good to me and it ran fine. But in knew it was on its last life.