Another converter thread

12many said
Are you aware of: the countless posters here that have had the same concerns as you? And of the countless posters through the years who have tried to enlighten them based on experience? Set that worry aside.
Ask yourself, why so worried? What’s that worry based on? The last car you had with a loose converter? What you’ve read? Someone’s told you? The key word is “Tight” when it comes to a converter.
What’s the highest stall car you’ve driven or ridden in? One with a tight converter?
Once you’ve driven/ridden in a car with a tight higher stall converter you wouldn’t have worries or concerns. Positively 100%
That’s all I got. Hopefully other will jump in.

Worries are if i choose the wrong one then the time and money it takes to change it out. Also if it is the wrong one and causes problems and something happens to the trans the time and cost of that. Been out of the hobby for many years and dont know about newer converters. The ones that i remember seem to slip a lot when taking off slowly such as on the street. From everything i have read those type of converters are loose converters and mainly used for forced induction so that they can spool up better. So mostly would not apply to me.

All of the cars that i have had in the past have had modified engines but all still with factory converters or manuals. I was told when i bought this car it has a stock unit in it. Brake stall is about 1200 3rd gear launch is 1900. Take off from stop seems to be around the 1900 and i would like it to be higher in the power curve.

I guess i am stuck in the mind set of stall over driving rpm produces heat which produces problems.
What i am getting is if i was to go with a tight 3500 I will have no problems even driving long trips at 2900 rpms and it will drive on the street like a factory converter.
If that is the case then that is the answer i am looking for.

Thanks for your advice.