Funny, I just watched that video last night as well. The timesert and the E-Z lok compared similarly in the testing. The ez lok I had ordered was the thin wall one so it was actually a hair thinner than the timesert. THe standard ez lock is thicker.
Either way, looks like both would do well for a repair like this. In my case it is no longer a requirement.
I did a bunch of research and measuring and decided to try the 7/16 bolt repair first, as I could still move up to the insert repair. I pulled the rad and fan off the engine and went to drill it out to 23/64 and the drill slid in. No threads left basically. Went up to 3/8 that my tap calls for and it didn't do much going in, but it did take some. I had to pull the water pump to tap the hole though. I guess it was just off enough that the tap couldn't line up directly with the hole. It tapped nice and left a nice clean thread. I put the bolt in and it was nice and snug. Reassembled it all using sealant on the threads of that bolt and it tightened up nice. Filled it up and no more leaks. Even ran it for half an hour to get it up to temperature and no leaks detected. I do think I have an air lock in my heater core though. The one hose is hot and the other is warm/cold. I flushed out the heater core when I had it all apart and it was flowing really smooth and clean so I doubt it is plugged. Temp is good and thermostat seems to be opening as the upper hose gets easy to compress. Going to try to bleed the heater core tomorrow maybe to see if its full of air.
