Testing Wiper Switch Continuity

You have a lot to learn and I'm not trying to be mean.

1...Lower reading AKA lower numbers in the ohms/ resistance function, means that current flows better, or "better" continuity
2...Different meters have different displays when "open" or "infinity." Consult the destruction manual. Sometimes it's INF etc, sometimes a dashed line, etc

3...Never use a meter in the "auto range" function when checking for low resistance. Always set the meter manually on the lowest resistance scale, and this varies meter to meter. ALWAYS short the leads HARD to get the low reading. I will often be .3--.4 ohms, showing the resistance in the test leads and connections. So anything you measure will be that or higher

4...The lower the resistance, the LESS accurate an ohm meter is. Older analog meters were not very useful below about .5 ohms and sometimes below 1 or 2 ohms.
5...NEVER trust ohm readings on something like a switch. Switch contacts can move or make better/ worse contact from slight movement or vibration

Ohms/ resistance readings really often don't tell you much. This is because a contact can sometimes show low resistance if it happens to "make" but a poor contact UNDER LOAD can act up.

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Generally it is much better to check switches and other devices with VOLTAGE rather than resistance and check them UNDER LOAD with voltage readings to look for high resistance problems

Example, in the case of say, a fog light switch. There are different ways to approach this. ALWAYS attempt to get into your mind the full functional path of a circuit so you can visualize what might be going on

In the case of a simple fog light circuit, you might have
A....Junction point for power tap off fuse panel, whatever
B....Inline fuse holder..........wiring......to
C....Switch and the wire crimp ends at the switch
D...wire routing out to the fog light mounting area, a branch splice to route power over to the other side, and of course connection to the lamps

"Let's say" they seem dim. How do you "chase" that?

One way is to (if necessary) extend one test lead so you can clip a good solid ground to the battery for the meter. Now with the lights powered on, "chase" the voltage drop.

1...Measure and note battery voltage right at the battery post. Measure voltage at the tap off point. Is it lower? Note that and how much
2...Check the downstream side of the fuse. Often this takes thinking and imagination. Sometimes a scrap strand of wire jammed into the holder so you can access it.

3....Now measure both sides of the switch. is the power side higher than the output to the lamps? VOLTAGE DROP in the switch, note this and how much

4...Now move down to the lamps. Is the power right at the lamps connection any lower than at the switch?

5..DON'T FORGET THE ground side. Now clip your meter to the ground battery clamp Measure the voltage at the ground wire connection right at the lamp. Do you read anything? How much? Perfect is zero

You have just chased the path of the circuit all the way from the ground point back through the circuit to the battery. You should have a good idea of where voltage is being dropped in that circuit.