NEED HELP,FUEL PUMP BOLT ISSUE,LEAKS OIL

Google helicoil.

That would be a propper fix.

If you go that route you will need to figure out a way to catch ALL the metal chips.

You could always replace the timing cover.

The bolts may be correct or not.

My bet is they should not have a shoulder, but if they do it will be short.

A long shoulder can bottom on the timing chain cover before the pump is torqued to spec, leak then PO decided it needed to be tighter and wham! Now it's stripped. The FSM calls for 30ft lbs on a 383 but that is into cast iron. I would suspect that into the aluminum triming cover 15 would be max. (I could not find a reference in the 67 FSM)

Whenever I am in doubt I take a piece of coat hanger wire and insert it into the hole that the bolt goes into. When it bottoms out I mark it. In this case you would mark it at the edge of the fuel pump where the head of the bolt would sit when installed.

That is the longest bolt that can go into the hole.

Take another wire and bend a short "L" to the end. Insert it in the hole but pull it back till it catches the back side of the hole. Mark it, that is the shortest bolt.
Just because you can insert a 4 inch long bolt into the hole does not mean you should. The bolt should be just a bit longer than the shortest.

My bet is both bolts are supposed to be the same length maybe 1.5 to 2" long.

Both bolts are going into the timming cover, the rear one into the timing chain space with oil, the front one to outside the engine


Back side of front bolt hole
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Back side of rear bolt hole
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