The problem is, I have no documentation (diagrams) for this car. But generally, some things you can try
Is this / was this lean burn and does it use a ballast resistor?
1..The spark thing you mentioned is off the track
2...Turn key to run. Measure coil + voltage to ground
3...Move meter to coil - and measure
4..Now twist key to start and measure coil + voltage while cranking
5...With key in "run" separate distributor connector and take end from engine harness (not distributor) With a spark test gap off the coil tower, tap the exposed end of the connector to ground. One single spark should happen each time
6 Remove dist. cap, and inspect reluctor for damage, rust, and debri, and wiggle test shaft play. Connect your meter to the dist connector, and crank engine. It should generate 1V AC. AC, not DC
Ignition box MUST be grounded. "Work" all connectors, on ECU, distributor, ballast, in/ out several times to scrub terminals and to "feel" for tightness. Examine them visually for corrosion, etc
If all else fails, try jumpering 12V direct to coil + and see if it starts
THE COIL/ ECU POWER IS DIFFERENT between "run" and "start." It is ALSO different between "start" using the key, and you jumpering the starter relay with the key in run.
The "run" position feeds power out through the bulkhead to the (if used) ballast resistor. THIS GOES DEAD during "start."
The only power going to the ignition system during "start" is from the IGN2 bypass circuit in the key, goes out through the firewall connector, and to the coil + side of the ballast.
