Anyone run the Weber knock off 38 progressive 2bl here on their 225?

this book (or books this one is a combined volume)
Amazon product ASIN B008N568DM
John Passini. Techinal officer for a 1960s/70s Tuning shop and offical UK conssionaires for weber.
It is akward to read, as its written in a conversational style, rather than a technical manual. a style you would expect from a chat in a bar with a well to do english gentleman stuck in the middle of black and white 1940s film land.
BUT it is a treasure trove of good advice once you get over the strange turns of phrase and read it all.
use of highlighter or sticky lables to mark stuff about your carb in each chapter is sensible.

It was published as 2 volumes in the late 60s, 2 volumes (green and yellow or orange covers) in the 70s and this combined one (both books in one) again in tha last 15 years or so.

i got my copies off ebay for about £10

it focuses on the fact that weber carbs were specfied for specific OEM applications, BUT were made availble to all, for use on other engines provided you understood that you would be responsible for finding the settings that worked for your motor .

i.e what you buy, will work in its orginal application out of the box, but not necessarily your application until you do the work to specify the correct set up.... Its orginal application may well have been something quite esoteric or it might heve been something extreamly mundane like a ford tranist van .

45 DCOE 13 bore size in mm, model, series.

the series links that version of the carb to a specific engine at a specifc level of tune.
13 means little other than a link to the engine it was designed for and in some cases other engines that weber decided it was good for. they only varied the design if they had to, and when they did a new series was born.

if you use more than 1 carb, getting same type, the same series and the same vintage is necessary for a good match.

if you buy new spanish made the series is the last series and combines the most popular set up from all preceeding configurations i.e specified like a last edition 1980s carb or a specific exceedigly popular configuration from the past.

most of the progressives were made for alfa, lancia fiat and ford for use on 1300- 3000 CC four and six cylinders designed to rev to a redline that is usually higher than a standard American V8.
but the tuning parts for them had to cover granny's grocery getter and the top flight of production car racing...

so the chances of you finding that a properly sized weber carb has no parts to enable its use on your motor is pretty low.

i have had throttle bodies and a carter BBD copy off Jinlin Fajs in china, via a seller called SherryBerg (ebay and aliexpress) and they have been of decent enough quality. i think Jinlin makes carter BBD copies for US and Australian suppliers and i know they make weber copies.

i have 3x 45dcoe on my car and i strongly suggest sorting out plugs and igntion before you start tuning journey. had i done this, life would have been easier. good with the carter BBD wasn't good enough with the webers, coil, leads, timing and advance curve all had to change.

comparison by total cfm doesn't quite work, you need enough cfm to get to choesn red line with the weber carb and that CFM for the carb may be different from a holley chosesn by CFM rateing it depends totally where the restriction in flow actually is and how many cylinders the carb is feeding....
bigger is not neccesarily better with a weber set up if it was i'd have 52mm carbs rather than 45, the general rules would dictate 52 mm (just bigger than my inlet valve size) car runs just fine with 45mm and they have a 40 mm choke.

Dave