Just so I'm clear about this (my original strut rods are long gone); the strut rods should be lengthened just until there is some binding, then back it off a turn?
They should be set so there’s no binding within the range of available travel. Once I achieve that though I double check it by changing the adjustment by a turn and seeing if it adds binding.
Start with them set so the LCA is perpendicular to the frame, then make small adjustments until you get them free of any binding. They usually end up slightly on the shorter side from that start point, but it will be set up dependent.
It takes some practice to figure out what’s normal resistance and what’s binding, you’re lifting the whole weight of all the suspension components and dealing with whatever resistance you get at the pivot points/bushings. If you have rubber bushings in the system they add some resistance. But when you actually feel binding it gets more obvious.