Adjustable strut rods - durability for street use

Ted265 said
Haha calm down guys, I would rather not have this thread deleted before I can read the replies and learn something. It's OK to disagree and I will take on all information for and against these parts into consideration to help me make up my mind.

This is not in my budget for this car, these aftermarket kits are very expensive to purchase over here in Australia and it gets a lot more involved than just a regular front end re-build.
Our registration laws are also fairly strict with regards to these types of modifications so they would want engineering reports, weld x-rays and such when I take the car in for inspection (more $$$). My daily is 2022 Kia Stinger GT so i will use that for when I want to do twisty mountain roads at high speed. For the valiant I just want to improve on what is there.
I have a set of bilstein shocks, MP 0.94" torsion bars, 27mm sway bar, roller bearing idler arm, variable ratio steering box, braced LCAs and bigger brakes to go on it. One of my STD struts has a bit of a bend in it and it's getting hard to find the rubber bushes now that's why I was looking at these vs stock replacement struts.
Have you or someone you know had a bad experience with these?

Yeah shop's that can do a propper alignment on these are few and far between. I have a shop semi-local to me that do a good job - couple of older guys that did their apprenticeship when these cars were still fairly new, so they are familiar with them. I'm not intending to use the adjustable struts as an alignment tool, more to free up movement in the front end (and replace my bent strut). I would like to have a go at doing my own alignments and have some good threads on here bookmarked to read through some more.

Not adverse to installing and setting them up myself - I would imagine one would start at the same length as the stock strut then adjust as necessary to keep the LCA perpendicular to the frame rail and be able to travel between the bumpstops without any binding?
Would the torsion bars need to be in place to help locate the LCA or is it done with just the spindle & upper/lower arms installed?
Did you notice a much harsher ride after installing them?
Any more feedback welcome.
Cheers,

I imagine this will start a holy war, but my preference is adjustable struts (like Firm Feel) without heim joints, and rubber strut bushings. I have tried to be open minded about the benefit of heim joint struts, but have not gotten a good technical response from any of technical people I've talked to at 4 companies that sell them. So maybe somebody here can clear this up for me. The heim joint length makes the effective strut radius to the LCA shorter than stock, because the strut now rotates from the heim joint rather than from the K-member. As the LCA goes up and down, the struts push/pull sideways on the bottom of the LCAs because the distance from the bottom of the LCA to the heim joint changes, and the strut is a fixed length, aside from strut bushing give. The shorter the strut radius, the farther will be the sideways push/pull per vertcal distance of LCA movement. The original equipment, softer strut bushings allow some compliance to reduce that movement, but the stiffer bushings don't have much give. So, more push/pull from shorter strut radius, plus less bushing give, impedes LCA vertical freedom of movement and increases the amount of movement at the bottom of the LCA. Stiffer strut bushings probably give better steering wheel control when going over potholes and bumps than do the original factory bushing, but that could be achieved by stiffer strut bushings alone, without the heim joints.

Separate issue, heim joint struts and stiff bushings are wrong for drag racing, because they will hinder the unsprung weight from falling at launch.