Is this the correct book for small blocks?
My REAL goal is to build my 360 to have at least 300 HP, but remain very easy to use as a regular street driver, without going all power crazy, if that makes sense. It should be doable, right? I see guys posting about making them into 408 strokers hitting over 400 horses, so with a mild cam and a few other goodies (which I'm not sure of yet), it shouldn't be hard to go from the stock 270s to 300, I think. Why 300? Mainly just so I can say it has 300 or 310 or whatever. Why not 400? I don't want to drive around with a big ol' cam and a loping idle. Same reason I want to swap my 3.91 Sure Grip for something like 3.23 Sure Grip. I know z I'm rambling, but it's super bowl Sunday and I don't watch that, so there. :)
Each book you purchase at a book store or download will have a kernal of wisdom. The FSM will direct on the proper procedures of basic inspection and assembly. What you are looking for is those bits of wisdom to gain some torque, driveability and fuel economy. I expect this and the other above mmentioned book are two to find Mopar specific wisdom. Another Cartech book available directly or through Amazon is How to Port and Flow Test Cylinder Heads. Another is How to Build Power. Both written by David Vizard.
He is currently involved with Uncle Tony's Mission Impossible build of a 318 to make 318 HP with a BBD two barrel carb. They are on a mass reduction program, so Chev LS valves are on the program. He also did a performance prep on the con rods with the intention of removing mass and increasing reliability. The stock 318 valve weighs 118g. A larger diameter LS valve weighs 95g. If your spring installed height is real close to 1.800", you could get behive springs, retainers and keepers from a Pick n Pull. Melling valves were inexpensive through Summit or probably your local parts store as they are stock replacement. These valves have 8mm stems which is where a lot of weight is saved. A little judiscious porting to unshroud the valves, improve swirl and just clean up the ports helps greatly. Port match the heads and intake to the gaskets for a smooth transfer.
David Vizard has a formula for specing camshaft LSA. For SBC - 128, for SBF - 127. These are parrallel valve engines so one of thisecshould work for SBM. For the Mopar Poly engines, Cleveland Fords, 385 Fords and BBC the number is 132. The formula is for SBC, 128 - (displacement for one cylinder ÷ (intake valve diameter × 0.91)). For best performance it is better to be 1° tight on LSA than too wide. I would look to a cam with say 215° to 220° at 0.050 lift. You want 0.500" to 0.530" lift. A 40° exhaust seat will aid low lift flow without incurring reversion. You want quick off the seat and a quick return to the seat without being hard on the seats. A higher rocker ratio with roller tips aids here.
If you need an intake a 4 barrel, I recommend the Edelbrock performer RPM AirGap manifold used with their AVS2 carburetor for good driveability and fuel atomization for economy. The 650CFM 1906 should function well. If you have a Performer 600CFM, you can get the annular primary boosters from The Carburetor Shop to convert yours. Edelbrock tech recommends starting calibration with the AVS2 factory primary jets and rods. 651 770 3505 is their number. $105US with gaskets and a new bowl cover gasket.
I would recommend looking up David Vizard Powertec 10 Youtube videos. Lots are not dedicated to Mopar, but wisdom on one can be applied to all. Peculiarities of each engine design may require slight modification to your application.
I think with this information and what you glean out of the books should get you a torquey 350HP with good driveability, fuel economy and reliability, without breaking the bank. Most of this can be done in your garage. Porting the heads; use a shop vac with a filter on the inside to catch the dust and grit as it comes in. Also use a tight fitting dust mask to keep the crap out of yoyr lungs. DV has a post containing comment on the filter and using a dust mask.
All the best on your build. Remember one thing, never install a bolt or nut without properly tightening it. Putting rods and pistons in and somebody arrives with a box of browns, finish tightening to torque that last piston pushed in. Ask how my younger brother found out about that.
