Everything you need to know, has already been said in this thread.
Except;
1) there is a rubber bumper at the top of the pedal travel, to park the pedal in the exact right place, for everything to work correctly, almost no matter how worn the factory oval slots get to be..... when everything is correctly assembled, with no missing parts,
and the free-play is properly adjusted .
2) if your clutch is NOT factory, but is a HD 3-finger type, then you need the V8 pedal-box AND the HD 340-UP, overcenter spring.
3) Also, the TO fork needs to rest at the front of the window in the BH.
4) And the Z-bar needs to be parallel to the road in front view, and at 90* to the centerline of the car, in plan-view.
5) And the down rod has to be laterally centered in the oval firewall window, and not rub on any edge during it's normal travel.
6) the E-clip needs to be installed on the pivot-pin (which needs periodic service) of the pedal to keep it from rubbing on stuff and hesitating to return to the parked position.
7) and finally, the adjuster rod from the Z-bar to the TO fork, at rest, should be approximately parallel to the road in side view, and, in plan-view, approximately parallel to the centerline of the car.
8) don't forget the so-called anti-rattle spring, which performs it's function by pulling all the slack out of the system right from the fork all the way to the pedal; and now you can actually measure the true TO fork-retraction off the fingers which equates to measuring the freeplay. BTW, the factory recommended freeplay is generous enough so that you may not have to readjust it for many thousands of miles. But, the only freeplay that you cannot run is ZERO. So you can run as little as you like, until you get tired of adjusting it too frequently...... which, with headers, is a very real thing. On my linkage I modified the system and now I can even adjust it with hot headers, and it only takes a minute or two...... so guess how much freeplay I run, lol.
Happy HotRodding
