The Great Pumpkin - '71 Duster
I put the front end in the Duster other day. Might seem a little out of sequence to install those parts at this point so I will explain why I did it. Looks like a car now though!
So truth be told, I am stuck on the wiring. Everything I need to do the job is on hand - harnesses, connectors, terminals, tools, shrink tubing, yada yada yada. The problem I'm having is layout, meaning where to locate the distribution centers and how to route everything from said distribution centers to the individual termination points. Essentially, the front end was installed so I could put the driveline and exhaust in to see where everything will ultimately end up.
Over the last few years, I have been watching a lot of YT videos on Holley EFI. There's a guy on there with a channel pretty much dedicated to dealing with Holley EFI stuff in race cars. In one of his longer videos, he made a point of saying it's best to have everything in place before starting on any wiring job. That definitely struck a chord with me and made me rethink how I was going to reassemble the car. I know from past experience that it can be a struggle to route wiring even in the most optimal situations and after watching that video it became clear that I had to put stuff in the car first.
Before the driveline can go in, the front end obviously had to be installed. Easy enough job to do, I don't think it took 45 minutes to get everything in place. I even torqued most of it to spec so I don't forget later. When the car was disassembled for paint, the steering linkage and brake stuff was merely disconnected so it all went back in easily. Have to say it's nice working on new, powdercoated parts that aren't covered in grime.
Here's the full-boogie QA1 front end - K-frame, adjustable strut rods, upper and lower control arms, etc. Sorry Denny! That's a Flaming River steering box I've had for like 20 years but never used. Unfortunately, it's several pounds heavier than a factory unit. If I had known that Mancini was eventually going to reproduce factory style, aluminum 20:1 boxes I would have bought one of those instead. I still may since they're not that expensive - light is might.
I have not installed the T-bars yet because I was uncertain of whether it'll be easier to put them in after the exhaust is on. Right now however, the car still has to be supported by the lift. It occurred to me that I probably will have to put them in first because at some point the car will have to come off the lift and moved backward to get the engine hoist in place.
The one major caveat to installing the driveline now is that the engine is going to have to come out again. I'm changing the the whole thing including the pistons and cam so it has to come completely apart. Suppose that's not a huge deal in the scheme of things but it does create extra work. I'm sure custom or race car builders have to do that sort of thing all the time to check fitment etc., probably just goes with the territory. Putting the engine and trans will also aid in plumbing the brakes, trans cooler and fuel lines.
My forlorn 416". Always a bridesmaid, never a bride. Yes, there are two different valve covers. The Cal Customs will be replaced with super-cool no-logo Mickey T's
It remains to be seen whether I will get the car running with the existing engine combo. I'm wary of firing it up since it's been sitting in it's current state for eight years and is probably not real happy inside. I would like to drive it around just to see what it's like since I never got to do that after it was built. Before I decided on changing stuff the plan was to take it apart for inspection and a re-gasket job anyway but I'd rather not do that job twice. There's also the idea of installing new headers on a 'new' engine and ruining the coating which I'd like to avoid. Suppose I'll have to cross those bridges when I get to them.
More to come.
I put the front end in the Duster other day. Might seem a little out of sequence to install those parts at this point so I will explain why I did it. Looks like a car now though!
So truth be told, I am stuck on the wiring. Everything I need to do the job is on hand - harnesses, connectors, terminals, tools, shrink tubing, yada yada yada. The problem I'm having is layout, meaning where to locate the distribution centers and how to route everything from said distribution centers to the individual termination points. Essentially, the front end was installed so I could put the driveline and exhaust in to see where everything will ultimately end up.
Over the last few years, I have been watching a lot of YT videos on Holley EFI. There's a guy on there with a channel pretty much dedicated to dealing with Holley EFI stuff in race cars. In one of his longer videos, he made a point of saying it's best to have everything in place before starting on any wiring job. That definitely struck a chord with me and made me rethink how I was going to reassemble the car. I know from past experience that it can be a struggle to route wiring even in the most optimal situations and after watching that video it became clear that I had to put stuff in the car first.
Before the driveline can go in, the front end obviously had to be installed. Easy enough job to do, I don't think it took 45 minutes to get everything in place. I even torqued most of it to spec so I don't forget later. When the car was disassembled for paint, the steering linkage and brake stuff was merely disconnected so it all went back in easily. Have to say it's nice working on new, powdercoated parts that aren't covered in grime.
Here's the full-boogie QA1 front end - K-frame, adjustable strut rods, upper and lower control arms, etc. Sorry Denny! That's a Flaming River steering box I've had for like 20 years but never used. Unfortunately, it's several pounds heavier than a factory unit. If I had known that Mancini was eventually going to reproduce factory style, aluminum 20:1 boxes I would have bought one of those instead. I still may since they're not that expensive - light is might.
I have not installed the T-bars yet because I was uncertain of whether it'll be easier to put them in after the exhaust is on. Right now however, the car still has to be supported by the lift. It occurred to me that I probably will have to put them in first because at some point the car will have to come off the lift and moved backward to get the engine hoist in place.
The one major caveat to installing the driveline now is that the engine is going to have to come out again. I'm changing the the whole thing including the pistons and cam so it has to come completely apart. Suppose that's not a huge deal in the scheme of things but it does create extra work. I'm sure custom or race car builders have to do that sort of thing all the time to check fitment etc., probably just goes with the territory. Putting the engine and trans will also aid in plumbing the brakes, trans cooler and fuel lines.
My forlorn 416". Always a bridesmaid, never a bride. Yes, there are two different valve covers. The Cal Customs will be replaced with super-cool no-logo Mickey T's
It remains to be seen whether I will get the car running with the existing engine combo. I'm wary of firing it up since it's been sitting in it's current state for eight years and is probably not real happy inside. I would like to drive it around just to see what it's like since I never got to do that after it was built. Before I decided on changing stuff the plan was to take it apart for inspection and a re-gasket job anyway but I'd rather not do that job twice. There's also the idea of installing new headers on a 'new' engine and ruining the coating which I'd like to avoid. Suppose I'll have to cross those bridges when I get to them.
More to come.
