CYLINDER MACHINING QUESTION
I also have the hand held Sunnen AN hone for use with a 3/4" slow drill. Not for the weak or faint of heart. I use more than a few different grades of stones when I did that work. The hone will certainly do more than a thousandth cleanly. You should have seen some "rebuilt" Chevrolet blocks I fixed. Some were bored without torquing the main caps so there was an interference fit at the bottom of the cylinder by more than a couple thousandths, let alone not being round at the top. Funny thing, those engines were down on power and ran hot. If doing what I suggest, you cherry pick your block by measuring the wear, not many will pass the grade. Chrysler made very good pistons, so they usually wear very little. I always ran Speed Pro file to fit rings with ductile iron top rings. If you are running a high performance engine why cheap out on rings? The ony point I was trying to make is if you are carefull and have a good block you don't need to do a full up rebuild. My "cheapo rebuilds would run better and longer than a lot of "new piston" rebored engines someone else did. I don't use any power adders and run on the street, but I need a car that can run all day long at 75 to 100 mph with zero problems ever. Think upper midwest.
I also have the hand held Sunnen AN hone for use with a 3/4" slow drill. Not for the weak or faint of heart. I use more than a few different grades of stones when I did that work. The hone will certainly do more than a thousandth cleanly. You should have seen some "rebuilt" Chevrolet blocks I fixed. Some were bored without torquing the main caps so there was an interference fit at the bottom of the cylinder by more than a couple thousandths, let alone not being round at the top. Funny thing, those engines were down on power and ran hot. If doing what I suggest, you cherry pick your block by measuring the wear, not many will pass the grade. Chrysler made very good pistons, so they usually wear very little. I always ran Speed Pro file to fit rings with ductile iron top rings. If you are running a high performance engine why cheap out on rings? The ony point I was trying to make is if you are carefull and have a good block you don't need to do a full up rebuild. My "cheapo rebuilds would run better and longer than a lot of "new piston" rebored engines someone else did. I don't use any power adders and run on the street, but I need a car that can run all day long at 75 to 100 mph with zero problems ever. Think upper midwest.