Cheaper than dirt 318 build
Bad to the bone truck, can't wait, lookin at the engine with the dude friday (gonna try to get the whole truck but wouldn't count on it cuz the springs are so much better than mine etc..) I got a lead on a bellhousing to match up the 318 to my 4 speed, and a lead in some 318 magnum heads. Gonna rebuild from ground up, new performance HEI system, water pump, oil pump, plugs n stuff (whatever cam seems like itd work) make everything work how it should. Thannnn... dump it into my truck and start adding more to it. Headers, valve covers, intake, carb, you name it. But afterwards. important stuff first, get her back on the road and in a daily drivable state. I'm probably going to have to get the block and heads milled n stuff... (I plan on driving this Truck a long time) unless they look good, I've yet to see the odometer... or what the gas pedal looks like... but in the process of getting the stuff at a machine shop, should I bore it over or anything special?
some of what you're saying here is running completely contrary to "cheaper than dirt" build.
first, i'd get that motor running and establish a baseline. compression, cylinder balance, leak down tests. check the plugs while they're all out. visual inspections on everything-- gaskets, seals, core plugs, oil, coolant. all of that with the addition of the mileage taken together should give you a pretty good idea of the overall health of the motor.
from there you should be able to assess whether it's a good candidate to run as is or if it will need a rebuild. if it needs a rebuild, unless it's DIRT cheap move on and find a runner, you'll be *miles* ahead-- even better if it's a 360
you start talking about machine work, getting the "heads and block milled n stuff". machine work is expensive. i'd suggest saving that money for a more worth while endeavor (360, magnum motor, etc)
working on the assumption that the motor is a good runner, i see no problem with a good ol fashioned "rattle bomb rebuild". oil pump, seals, gaskets, water pump, valve seals. stab in a cam (dealer's choice here, but i'd keep it toward the small side), and a new timing chain. top it with a used 4bbl intake and carb (625 afb will be cheap and effective).
you do not need some new fangled HEI nonsese. the
stock electronic ignition is more than sufficent. headers can come later, run the manifolds for now.
besides tracking down the correct V8 bell, you're going to need a flywheel at the very least. you may also need a clutch and pressure plate. thankfully that stuff is widely available and inexpensive. no need to get all aftermarket crazy here. the fork, z and bell mounts may need some sorting as well so keep that in mind. of bigger importance is if the V8 crank is drilled for the pilot/manual trans. which, you won't know until you pull it and have a look see.
i highly recommend getting
everything you can-- mounts, brackets, wiring, radiator (the inlet and out let will be different for a slant) and even as much of the exhaust as you can manage, battery cables, again-- everything you can. this will all help tremendously in swapping over.
