wiring check

STOP! DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!



That's fine, but you've ignored the help I've provided.
If you do not know how to read the diagram that I posted, then ask.
You must disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected untill you have connected and secured all of the hot terminals so they do not accidently touch the body metal. In a similar vein, remove any wedding bands or similar metal jewlery from your hands when working on a car with the battery connected.

The way to use the diagrams is like a map.
Put your finger on the Battery positive. That's the power source. Follow the line representing the connecting wire.
Eventually it leads to a black circle. That represents a welded splice.
Every wire connected to that splice is at battery voltage.
Touching the bare terminals of any of the wire to ground will result in the battey discharging the highest current it can through the connection.

When the battery is connected these are always hot
View attachment 1716093764

There is no off switch for these wires.

The only protection to break a short to ground is the fusible link, and the wires that have fuses.
In the best case scenario the link will melt quickly and there will only be minor damage elsewhere along the path.
Reality is the link is a 16 gage wire and it may not melt quickly.
I did disconnect the battery before I plugged the red/white stripe wire back in, I also taped the alternator wire to pevent any metal contact there.. I am also understanding the diagram you posted but I am still at a loss as to why I do not have any voltage at the instrument light fuse. So correct me if I am not thinking the right way with this, I have power for the headlights but not the instrument panel lights, shouldn't the power for them come through the headlight switch which is hot constantly? I am trying to contact m&h to see what they think. Thanks again for your help and I apologize for my ignorance with this.