Replaced ballast resistor started ran and died

Why did you replace it? Resistors are simple. The 2 pin you simply check for continuity, and wave/ tap/ whack it to check for intermittent. The 4 pin is exactly the same, except "the long way" you have 2 resistors in one box

For a short time you can simply jumper around the resistor to see if it's a problem.

CLIP your voltmeter on the coil + terminal and ground. Turn key to "run." You should NOT have full battery voltage, but instead should have around 6-10V

Now watch the meter and using the key, crank the engine. Now, while cranking, you should have full battery voltage and at least 10.5V or more.

Check for spark. "Rig" (or buy) a test spark gap, or make one from a plug. "rig" a wire, SOLID core, not resistor wire, and you can use low voltage wire if you keep it away from metal. Watching the gap, crank the engine using the KEY. You should have nice hot blue snappy sparks at least 3/8" long and typically longer.

If not, turn the key to "run" and separate the distributor 2 wire pickup connector. Take the engine harness end (not the distributor) and tap the bare end against ground, such as the distributor housing or other unpainted surface. Each tap should give you once single "snap" spark.

Module MUST be grounded. Undo it, clean/ scrap around the bolt holes and if possible get some start lock washers and remount. "Work" the connectors in/ out several times to scrub the terminals and "feel" for tightness. The distributor connector, especially is vulnerable because there is almost no current there.