Question about a old mad bypass repair

inertia said
The fuse link is a form of " slow-blow" fuse.
It'll take a surge and not blow, the ATO is "instant blow" .
I believe you can get a "slow blow breaker" for the ATO holder, that may work .

Yep, Many years back when Bosch began to design and build antilock brake processors, My brother and his QC crew ran quality tests on multiple brands of 30 amp blade type fuses. Most can pass as much as 40+ amps for some milliseconds before opening. Of course I can't recall any exact figures shown to me. Ambient temperature is a factor too. Placing these fuses in a cool location is the mfgrs engineers responsibility.
A fusible link multistrand wire of proper type and gauge of wire in a silicone casing is more dependable than a slither of metal incased in plastic or glass tube.
And what vehicle feature produces the most varying amp draw in our old beaters, The wiper motor. Pushing the wipers up uses more power than bringing the wipers down again. Because its a gear motor drive, a lot of the workload is absorbed by the gearing but design and subsequent wear in linkage/moving parts does increase the load on the motor. The fusible link will slowly get hotter and hotter and hotter without sufficient time to cool. While a blade type fuse would have blown, a fusible link could smoke and even catch fire.
The engineers found that the more fuses and relays, the better.
Do this, take a nice morning stroll through a large parts yard like LKQ. Take notice of fire damage. It's 99% under the hood. The fuses and relays do their job. Those newer vehicles running 100-amp alternators to power so many heat generating features don't burn the human beans.