Taking It To The Track

here is how i set the power valve on my holleys: with the engine hot, i let the car idle IN GEAR and take a reading of the vacuum. that is most likely the lowest vacuum reading you will get. then i choose a power valve with 2 numbers less than that reading (that is the old fashioned-way but it works). that way, it will not open unless going wide open throttle or when accelerating. note that the number of doors (or openings) of the p.v. plays a big role when accelerating. a regular p.v. has 2 small holes from holley most of the time. going to a 2 door (2 rectangular openings) pv will richen up the mixture under acceleration. a 4-door pv will richen it up even more. also, make sure the p.v. you chose hasnt dried up, that would mess-up your calibration.
what i meant about more vacuum reading for a double-pumper is that it will make more vacuum than the current carb, if it is not running right. also, out of 3 vacuum-secondary 3310`s i had, only one was on par with a 750 double-pumper on my car.
also, if you removed the choke, there is a chance you have a vacuum leak where the choke mechanism was. mostly occurs on carbs with ELECTRIC choke beeing removed.
Yes, I need to see what vacuum it has in gear, at idle. (I'll also check cruise vacuum.) And also see if it's pulling vacuum at the top end, and try to use a PV that won't close at the top end. If it's not closing the 2.5 that's in it, none of this matters and I need to look elsewhere!

Thanks for the info about PV flow, I plan on getting a hi-flow.

I'll see if this carb has any problems. I just can't swing a 750 DP. Plus, my converter is about 3200ish. Would a DP be sluggish with that tight a converter?

I rebuilt the carb when I put the engine in, maybe 3 years ago. Yes, I removed the electric choke. I'll have to see if the vacuum source for the choke is still plugged. I don't remember how I did it, but I'm sure I did. But then again... old fatritus has been kicking in. lol