Members Opinions and Comments on Today's Electronic Voltage Regulators

Before asking my question, here's the backstory. I have a '68 Dart with the 1970 ignition system; dual field squareback alt (Powermaster), electronic VR, dedicated 10g charge wire from the Alt Batt stud to the starter relay. Ammeter is hooked up and works, stock wiring through the bulkhead.
Over the 11 years I've owned the car, it's needed charging system maintenance/repair a few times. I replaced the brushes twice on the stock squareback before biting the money bullet and installing the PowerMaster. The VR has been replaced once, and that leads to my current dilemma.
System isn't charging again. Alt stud puts out 11.6V; the battery is 12.5V. Ammeter reads slight discharge. Key on-eng off, there's 12.4V to the blue Ign wire at the VR harness; harness plugged into the VR there's 11.7V on the blue wire at the alternator.
Engine running, I full fielded the alt and ammeter pegs to + charge (I turned off the engine before reading the volts on the MM). Pulled the VR harness, jumpered across the two harness terminals, disconnect and ground the blue Ign wire at the alternator; ammeter shows slight charge. So all signs point to a faulty VR.
Problem is, I bought a Mopar Performance VR 3438150 321 from Mancini Racing in July 2019. Only four years ago. I purposely bought a Mopar Performance VR because I didn't want to rely on a cheap O'Reilly's VR. And the final kick to the nuts is that VR cost $27.23 in 2019 (I have the receipt), today its $71 - $83 depending on Mancini, Summit, Ebay. Mancini sells a no-brand generic VR for $32.

So what are member's thoughts on today's VRs? Would you stay with the Mopar Performance or get a cheapo generic because they're going to crap out anyway? Look for a 50+ year old NOS? I assume the only difference between the 3438150 321, 419, and 271 are dating coding for restorations.