318 runs real load and shakes like crazy
Add a voltmeter to list, and as TMM posted, get that thing charged on battery charger regardless.
When cranking the battery should not drop below 9.5 Volts.
Since it was running, we know it all works. It also accepted increase in throttle without any noticible misses. You can double check but seems like firing order is fine as is reluctor gap.
Car has a ‘75 five pin ignition plug so, I had to buy a new ‘75 model year ignition control module.
The only thing that matters with the original Chrysler electronic ignition is the ECU.
If its an original ECU, then it will use all 5 pins and needs to be wired with the 'dual ballast', the 5 ohm resistor is used to control current to the ECU.
The original wiring can be used with a later ECU, no changes neccessary.
Vacuum leak: Car seems over carbureted to me. I wish I knew more about the previous owner and their intentions. The intake and 4 bbl sound very similar to vacuum leak problems I’ve encountered when failing to properly plug all of the ports on a carb or not properly sealing the carb. I have it snug and properly plugged but, having the set screws and curb idle be utterly useless has me baffled.
Idle is too high.
It looks like timing was checked with vacuum advance connected, which compounds the problem (see the Chrysler tech)
It looks like the second video the choke was fully closed through all the attempts.
if the engine was already a bit warm, need to open the throttles a bit as well as the choke. Tie the choke open if needed. Its summertime, its hardly needed.
if you have enough room on the starter cable, turn the battery arround. That will shorten the distance for the negative to the block and let you drop the battery in the tray.
