Members with 4 wheel disc systems: Can you lock your wheels?
My 2007 Ram is anti-lock on the rear only. I've skidded the fronts before while feeling that ABS pulse in the brake pedal that is the system cycling pressure at the rear.
Every classic vehicle that I have except this Charger has the ability to skid the tires.
This car does stop well but it isn't to the point where I'm so impressed, I'd want to brag about it.
I think that it may come down to the brake booster. It is the single diaphragm 73-76 A body unit designed for front disc, rear drum.
I suspect that the stock 1966-70 B body dual diaphragm booster would be an improvement since it has double the diaphragm area and is spec'd for heavier B body cars.
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My experience with the Early KB dual diaphragms, is not good.
Mine was lazy and late. It required more vacuum to work, and it generated less assist, than the later F-body single D.
I took it apart and checked it out, and there was nothing wrong with it, so I bagged and shelved it.
BTW
as you probably know, the booster is just an assist-device. It amplifies whatever pedal-force your brake-foot generates in direct proportion. The booster does not increase the ability of your brakes to create more speed reduction.
What I mean is this;
if your master cylinder is able to generate a maximum of 1000psi into the brake lines, by your maximum two-footed pedal-application without the booster; then that may be all it will generate With the booster..... except it will just need less pedal pressure to do it.
However
by varying the length of the pushrod, I have found that it is possible to change the timing of the assist relative to the pedal-stroke; AND this will or can, change he amount of assist, early in the pedal-stroke.
However,
if you make the pushrod too long, you run the risk of breaking the control valve in a panic situation when your Adrenalin is apt to increase your leg-power, beyond the usual. When the control valve breaks, in my experience, there is no longer any ability to modulate the amount of assist. In my case any pedal application, generated maximum assist.
In any case;
the pushrod length has to stay in a fairly narrow range, such that the compensating port always remains open with the pedal parked.
If your p-rod is not adjustable, You can fake it by spacing the M/C away from the firewall. This will delay the movement of the M/C piston, which will increase the control-valve opening inside the booster, causing it to increase assist. The downside is the extra pedal travel before you get that assist.
In my experience;
it should take about 1" of pedal-travel before assist begins. But assist should remain progressive and easy to modulate.
BTW
I don't know anything about your truck; but in some vehicles in the past, the pedal ratio was different between those with boosters as compared to those without.
and
Some boosters require more vacuum to work properly than others. If the threshold is low enough, you will get assist earlier.
When I tried the KH DD, I had the 292/292/108 cam in my 367, that idled around 10" vacuum, which provided zero assist. and it did not provide any serious assist until about 13 inches.
I have a manual trans.
Thus when coming to a stop, clutch pedal down, and engine returning to idle/vacuum dropping, I would lose assist at/during the stoplight wait. On hills this was very annoying, so I installed a hill-holder. As soon as the vacuum was restored,by driving away, it worked fine.
Eventually I was annoyed enough to try some other boosters I had kicking around. The F-body booster worked the best and it has remained on the car, during the following two cam-swaps, since IDK maybe year 2001. The hill-holder has also stayed, doing it's primary function of being a line-loc valve.
Hope this helps.
