FUEL GUAGE PROBLEM

I seem to have a situation with my fuel gauge that MIGHT be similar to sgrip65 . I’ve pulled the instrument cluster and purchased a device that allows me to dial in resistance. With a good voltage limiter (old and new limiters provide a good 5 volt pulse) - I found that the gauge reads full at 3 ohms, 1/2 full at 11 ohms, and empty at 38 ohms. My sender is out of this loop (still installed) and it has its own problems. 1). Anyone know of sgrip65 solved his problem? 2) Any chance that a gauge corrector system would help me in this case?
Hi Ken71. I was absolutely lost on this with my fuel gauge problem. I wound up buying a new tank (the old one was dented up.) As well, a new sending unit, I had a different gauge which I installed. I tested, by hand, the new sending unit at the toe kick, and it seemed to work well. However, when I installed the new sending unit, I added exactly 1/2 a tank of fuel, and the gauge went to 1/4 tank. Then I filled the tank completely, and it went to 1/2 full on the guage. I did not test the ohm resistance reading. Anyway, I had the 5 Volt pulse, and, now, the gauge reads at1/2 full when full. There is not any fuel within the float causing the float arm to sink, I have the 5 Volt pulse, the gauge was tested using the sending unit at varied positions outside of the car, the wires have been tested to be sure that there are no shorts to ground, and the PCB (printed circuit board) was tested with no opens or shorts. Anyway, that is where I am at. It was suggested using a meter match device. Looks like this will be a next winter job. What is odd is that, outside of the tank, using manual movements of the sending unit float's arm, the gauge reads empty to full with that movement; however, installed, no. I have been told that these sending units are notorious for false readings. I will live with this till next Winter. Sorry I could not be of more help. Thanks for the inquiry. Sgrip65