GREAT! There is one thing I wanted to mention even though you didn't ask. About those thin tin speedy nuts holding the gauges to the board. Although they do have a fairly large footprint to the copper pad beneath, the reason for their use is how a engineers training and mind works. A weak nut suggests a weak foundation of what its screwed onto. Those studs a swedged into a thin piece of fiber board that will break easily. Turning the stud would damage the nichrome wire welded to head end of them.
If the stud was rusty or damaged, a service tech could cut that pizzy nut off, thus saving the board and gauge. The downside of that nut.., it's the weakest link in the positive current path since it contacts only one thread of a stud or bolt. All of that is the cause for my internal toothed washers and true hex nuts but I had to CAREFULLY chase the studs threads first and be very careful in tightening.
I all most forgot. The connector that attaches to a oil sender looks a lot like a female spade terminal. It sides onto a small round button atop that sender. It typically doesn't have an insulator on it, so if it should fall or get knocked off and lay to chassis ground bad things could happen to all of your guages. That connector is available online somewhere, but I can never recall who/where to find it. Just another coin well spent in my opinion. Someone here knows but are they following this thread. Fingers crossed.
Happy moparing