I don't understand "oip" or "shas and heat" that you typed. As best I can tell the electrical side is working. The only gauge that is chassis grounded is the fuel gauge and that chassis ground is for the mechanical limiter. It is producing a pulse voltage but we don't know it is adequate voltage to operate the thermal gauges. Without a separate temperature sensing devise, we don't know you have hot water either.
A test for the novice with little or no test equipment... Use a piece of wire with alligator clips both ends to connect the purple temp sender wire directly to ground. Get in the seat and turn the ignition switch to on. The temp gauge needle should move quite rapidly to its max 'H' position. If needle moves very slowly and/or doesn't go all the way to 'H' as it should, either the gauge or the mechanical limiter in the fuel gauge is where the fault is.
I don't know if I mentioned this before but,,, your rally fuel gauge has a thin piece of metal on its backside to ground it to the cast metal inst' housing. A poor contact there can cause a poorly functioning limiter. In some models that piece of metal on the back of the 3 post fuel gauge is brass. In other models it is tin. In either case it needs to be a clean and snug connection.
And if "heat" referred to heated air out of the vents, the electric blower isn't related to the inst' panel. Nor is lack of hot water.