Looking for experienced opinions on removing k-member.

Amazing no rust under the Master Cylinder, since they usually leak glycol fluid which is a great paint remover. Your down-under suspension likely has minimal corrosion, so should be easy-peasy to take apart.

Re removing the T-bars. There is a wire C-clip at the rear of the T-bar anchor you must remove to slide it back thru the hex hole. If primo, a plastic cap is still over that. The grease cap there is just to prevent rust. The earliest cars didn't have that, which made them collect road salt (bad corrosion). Forget a clamp tool for the T-bar. I've just removed the pivot bolt nut, then pried the LCA back with a crowbar, which pushes the T-bar back thru the hex mount. Then tap the LCA forward and the T-bar should drop out of the front anchor (reassemble w/ grease there too to avoid corrosion. Several posts about changing the LCA bushing. You can manage without a shop press, using bolts washers and spools for a similar effect (buy Grade 8 fine-thread bolt). Best trick is to gut the rubber by whacking the center out or burning it out (nasty). Then get the empty shell out by cutting mostly thru longitudinally, then peel it inward w/ hammer and chisel. I recall cutting the inner shell off the pivot bolt, but might have used a shop press.

Once you remove the UCA, LCA, and drag strut, I don't think any other suspension parts are on the K-frame so seems no need to unbolt it. Use the Moog improved strut rod bushings (rubber disks on both sides). The OE 1-piece style is a pain to work thru the hole.