76 dart sport fuseible links
I do not know if there were TSBs, but I think I've seen a seperate electric manual but don't have a copy.
With a remote shunted ammeter, current needs to flow through the path parallel to the meter. Voltage on both sides of the meter will be very close to the same.
Need to make a setup where current flows. For example a headlight, three heavy wires (10 or 12 gage) one of which will serve as the shunt. I'm going to guess 12 ga for 15 inches might be ballpark for the shunt. The right thing to do would be to examine the engine harness to get a better idea of what was used.
Then place the ammeter in parallel. Wire gages can be small. I think the FSM showed 20 gage. That helps them act as a safety plus easier to handle.
All I have is a pdf of most of the diagram pages from a 1976 Dodge or Plymouth Chassis Manual.
I do not know if there were TSBs, but I think I've seen a seperate electric manual but don't have a copy.
OK. That is helpful to know
How /what did you check ?
What sort of check?
Lost me here.
With a remote shunted ammeter, current needs to flow through the path parallel to the meter. Voltage on both sides of the meter will be very close to the same.
Need to make a setup where current flows. For example a headlight, three heavy wires (10 or 12 gage) one of which will serve as the shunt. I'm going to guess 12 ga for 15 inches might be ballpark for the shunt. The right thing to do would be to examine the engine harness to get a better idea of what was used.
Then place the ammeter in parallel. Wire gages can be small. I think the FSM showed 20 gage. That helps them act as a safety plus easier to handle.
If you are measuring voltage from the Batt (output) stud to ground and the battery is connected, yes the stud should be at battery voltage if there are no breaks in the line. The fusible link grouping on the engine harness is pretty easy to see.
or one of them touched ground. or as you suggested if there was a break in the shunt connections.
