disc brake wheel stud swedge tool
Updating (strangely can't edit post 43). I got a response from the Chinese supplier of the ACTOOL 13/16" Annular Cutter. They gave a spec for the ID as 12.7 mm (recall), which would be perfect (1/2"D), but as received ID measured ~475 mil so wouldn't fit over the 1/2" wheel studs which measure ~485 mil. I had to buy a 1/2" carbide ball end mill w/ 2" cutting length ($15 ebay) to enlarge the hole. I first tried a 1/2" carbide end mill but only 1" cutting length and couldn't push deeper without jamming. A regular HSS end mill couldn't cut the HSS Annular Cutter. After enlarging the hole 1.5" deep, I had plenty of depth to remove the swedges. The annular cutter fit perfectly in a 3/4" R8 collet on my milling machine. Few drill presses can chuck a 3/4" cutter, though I have seen such chucks as an option on very large drill presses. Without that, most people would be better buying the Goodson ST-500 (3/8" shaft?) or a small hole saw. Brake Drum Swedge Cutting Tool
I don't see anywhere to buy a 7/16" Swedge Cutter today. The 13/16" cutter above will fit over the stud without having to enlarge its center hole. If excessive gap, you might slip tubing between them or wrap sheetmetal, which also serves as a thread protector. I'll probably do that if I need remove a swedge on my A-bodies. I simply placed the drum loose on the milling machine table and let it slide freely to center the stud on the annular cutter. Both should be parallel to each other if the milling machine is true, so just needs x-y alignment.
I had to hammer on both the hub end and each stud, in turn, using aluminum to not mar the steel. I tried my old "drop on concrete" trick, but didn't work, probably because I didn't throw it down, not wanting to mess up my sidewalk. Two studs pushed out of the hub a bit, but didn't no damage to the flutes, so I just tapped them back flush. If you ever spin a stud, as shops have done to me (didn't know about RH threads and hid their mess-up), you can make a few weld tacks to keep the stud from spinning in the hub. Also works if your upper control arm ball joint hole threads get boogered.
Updating (strangely can't edit post 43). I got a response from the Chinese supplier of the ACTOOL 13/16" Annular Cutter. They gave a spec for the ID as 12.7 mm (recall), which would be perfect (1/2"D), but as received ID measured ~475 mil so wouldn't fit over the 1/2" wheel studs which measure ~485 mil. I had to buy a 1/2" carbide ball end mill w/ 2" cutting length ($15 ebay) to enlarge the hole. I first tried a 1/2" carbide end mill but only 1" cutting length and couldn't push deeper without jamming. A regular HSS end mill couldn't cut the HSS Annular Cutter. After enlarging the hole 1.5" deep, I had plenty of depth to remove the swedges. The annular cutter fit perfectly in a 3/4" R8 collet on my milling machine. Few drill presses can chuck a 3/4" cutter, though I have seen such chucks as an option on very large drill presses. Without that, most people would be better buying the Goodson ST-500 (3/8" shaft?) or a small hole saw. Brake Drum Swedge Cutting Tool
I don't see anywhere to buy a 7/16" Swedge Cutter today. The 13/16" cutter above will fit over the stud without having to enlarge its center hole. If excessive gap, you might slip tubing between them or wrap sheetmetal, which also serves as a thread protector. I'll probably do that if I need remove a swedge on my A-bodies. I simply placed the drum loose on the milling machine table and let it slide freely to center the stud on the annular cutter. Both should be parallel to each other if the milling machine is true, so just needs x-y alignment.
I had to hammer on both the hub end and each stud, in turn, using aluminum to not mar the steel. I tried my old "drop on concrete" trick, but didn't work, probably because I didn't throw it down, not wanting to mess up my sidewalk. Two studs pushed out of the hub a bit, but didn't no damage to the flutes, so I just tapped them back flush. If you ever spin a stud, as shops have done to me (didn't know about RH threads and hid their mess-up), you can make a few weld tacks to keep the stud from spinning in the hub. Also works if your upper control arm ball joint hole threads get boogered.
