Wilwood disc brake kit for mopar A body but using B body spindles

What is most important?
a) Kit that fits
b) Kit that stops
c) Kit that you can go buy brake parts over the counter later (such as pads)
d) Brand prestige

I installed 1973 disc brake spindles on my 1972 Duster to bolt on all the factory correct style 1973 11” power disc brake system with rear drums, with correct single diaphragm 10” booster, 4 bolt master cylinder, and OEM style proportioning valve and have zero complaints. Ok, one complaint, 4 bolt master commits me to a very specific brake booster, no modern booster substitutes, but that’s my only issue, and a rebuilt booster fixed that, but it was a month long search. Otherwise, due to being just OEM replacement parts, they all just fit as they should and worked properly together, from RockAuto.

I have bought parts from Dr Diff, not brake parts, but rear differential rebuild parts, and guess what I didn’t have to do, rebuy those parts, because all the parts were right for my application, 489 SureGrip. Dr Diff does a lot of business with members on here because he knows what it takes to work for their application, as long as said application isn’t a total Frankenstein with no clue what is bolted to it. At that point one needs to just start over with factory correct…. Ditch the B body parts.

In my experience rebuilding my 1972 Duster, the biggest struggles I went through were pinion angle, driveshaft length, rear brake shoes, rear axle brake lines, rear axle brake T fitting and hose, and rear wheel offset. I bought axle shims twice, driveshaft twice, rear brake shoes twice, rear axle brake lines twice, rear axle brake T fitting and hose twice, and rear wheels twice. I would have been ahead to buy an A body 8-3/4 and rebuild it instead of entirely rebuilding and staying committed to the B body 8-3/4 that was in it when I bought the Duster. Oh, and it has a 7260 yoke on the pinion because I accidentally stayed committed to it when I replaced pinion and used crush sleeve instead of crush sleeve eliminator… good thing I don’t race… but that would be yet another revisit in the future.

I can not stress this enough, ditch the B body spindles on your A body car and buy A body spindles correct for whatever application you have and brakes you plan to equip it with, you are already buying twice because of it…

And things can be worse. The first three months I had my car completed and drivable this summer, after a 2.5 year rebuild, it was not entirely enjoyable because I was chasing driveline vibrations!!! And it took that long to figure it all out just to spend another $1000 sorting it out… all because a B body rear axle was installed. Since the pinion angle was set wrong when perches were moved and shimming affects the driveshaft length and that affects angles… I was locked in a battle of numbers and vibrations…