Input needed - Timing curve - Terminator X
I arrived at the timing numbers by trial and error but I will say the increase was significant from the Wizard tune. To start, I put numbers I thought would be OK in the corners of the table, selected all the cells and smoothed the whole thing. I strated conservative like you but found that increasing the timing in all areas was generally a good thing and was especially true at lower RPMs where that car spent most of the time. Past a certain point it's diminishing returns though. Too much timing will usually make it run hotter so if you can't hear pinging pay attention to the temps.
In my limited experieince, WOT will generally be between 32º-36º but for a performance engine you'd probably want to see at least 34º. I know from dyno data my old 416" combo from my Duster liked 35º. That's a Ricky Racer engine with high-flowing heads and a big cam though so yours may not need that much. Just one of those things you'll have to mess with until you find the sweet spot. Log away and study the learn table to see what works.
Cruise timing can be almost 50 in some instances. I'd start at 42-44º. You can tune that in a live setting to see what happens. Thst would be similar to driving around with a vacuum gauge in the car. I'd also suggest watching the AFR table and see if it's hitting the targets with whatever timing you have it programmed at. I think my cruise AFR was like 14.8.
You're not that far off so just keep going. Hope that helps.
Not sure how rowdy your engine is but the table below was from the basically bone-stock 383 that was in my Sniper-equipped '68 Coronet. Initial was 20º, WOT was 34º and cruise was 44º. That engine had 10:1 compression ('68 factory flat top pistons), later 452 heads, factory 335hp hydraulic cam, headers and an Edelbrock Performer which is an aluminum copy of the stock intake. The 1968 factory dual point initial timing spec for a 383 4bbl was like 10º or so so I was literally at double that with no real downside. In general I'd say give it as much initial advance as it will tolerate without making it hard to start.
I arrived at the timing numbers by trial and error but I will say the increase was significant from the Wizard tune. To start, I put numbers I thought would be OK in the corners of the table, selected all the cells and smoothed the whole thing. I strated conservative like you but found that increasing the timing in all areas was generally a good thing and was especially true at lower RPMs where that car spent most of the time. Past a certain point it's diminishing returns though. Too much timing will usually make it run hotter so if you can't hear pinging pay attention to the temps.
In my limited experieince, WOT will generally be between 32º-36º but for a performance engine you'd probably want to see at least 34º. I know from dyno data my old 416" combo from my Duster liked 35º. That's a Ricky Racer engine with high-flowing heads and a big cam though so yours may not need that much. Just one of those things you'll have to mess with until you find the sweet spot. Log away and study the learn table to see what works.
Cruise timing can be almost 50 in some instances. I'd start at 42-44º. You can tune that in a live setting to see what happens. Thst would be similar to driving around with a vacuum gauge in the car. I'd also suggest watching the AFR table and see if it's hitting the targets with whatever timing you have it programmed at. I think my cruise AFR was like 14.8.
You're not that far off so just keep going. Hope that helps.
