Classic auto air install 1970 Duster with 340 and Edebrock Super Victor EFI Manifold
Now to get on to the interior part of it, after removing all the original heater box and the controls, you get to modify the control plates
You'll find it goes OK until you do the hot/cold blend and find that the wire for the control is about 3/4" too long. I shortened it. When it gets at least 90% of the way to both ends of the potentiometer then you'll know it's doing alright.
To get the box in, you will have to trim the firewall insulation around the opening where the blower motor went though before. I also suggest that you put this bracket in after the rest is bolted up because it's basically impossible to swing the box in when this is bolted up to the box and I had to re-bend this bracket to get it to work right for me. I may add a second bracket later since it seems like it still rocks in the cross-car direction. I had to use a right angle air drill to drill this hole.
Megasquirt 3 pro computer can still be put in it's original location. You'll notice there's a lot of room to the right of the kick panel and above the fan. This is where I'd like to mount the controller and the relay, but the wires are too short to reach right there.
I did hook up the wiring to do the test tonight. The first try - everything worked, but the blend doors wouldn't actuate after calibration. I tried with the mode switch to the right at the beginning of the calibration which is opposite of the directions and then it worked, but all was reversed. I had to unbolt and flip that potentiometer and then recalibrate and all was good.
As far as the wiring goes:
The directions show a black pigtail to the water valve, blue to the defrost door, and yellow to the other mode door - in this case, yellow=grey. The wires are too short for those in my opinion. I will have to contact them to see where they intended that the control box get mounted.
Most people's cars will only have a single power for the blower motor, so you'll have to add one. I used the blower motor power for the main power, and also have a second wire coming out to trigger the relay for the additional power. The relay comes from under the hood at my secondary positive battery post with a 20A fuse and then runs inside. If you fuse it just where they have it, you can burn your car down with a short. Not really great.
They don't give you any wiring to set up the pressure switch, just a connector and the relay that has to be under the dash. Plan on buying some wire at least of 16 ga to run it. I haven't finished that yet, but its fairly easy, though you need a lot of wire to do a clean install.
I'm not sure where they actually expect you to run the wire for the water valve, but I think it makes the most sense to run it through one of the original heater core holes that they give you rubber plugs to plug.
It says in the directions that the ground must be connected directly to the battery. I don't know the reason for this but I hooked it up this way for now. I may have to convert to the MIL Spec battery post on the negative as well to make it not look janky.
So far...For a "Perfect fit" kit, I sure have had to modify a few things. I also need to ask them if I was supposed to get a glovebox because there isn't one in the box or on the packing list.
Now to get on to the interior part of it, after removing all the original heater box and the controls, you get to modify the control plates
You'll find it goes OK until you do the hot/cold blend and find that the wire for the control is about 3/4" too long. I shortened it. When it gets at least 90% of the way to both ends of the potentiometer then you'll know it's doing alright.
Megasquirt 3 pro computer can still be put in it's original location. You'll notice there's a lot of room to the right of the kick panel and above the fan. This is where I'd like to mount the controller and the relay, but the wires are too short to reach right there.
I did hook up the wiring to do the test tonight. The first try - everything worked, but the blend doors wouldn't actuate after calibration. I tried with the mode switch to the right at the beginning of the calibration which is opposite of the directions and then it worked, but all was reversed. I had to unbolt and flip that potentiometer and then recalibrate and all was good.
As far as the wiring goes:
The directions show a black pigtail to the water valve, blue to the defrost door, and yellow to the other mode door - in this case, yellow=grey. The wires are too short for those in my opinion. I will have to contact them to see where they intended that the control box get mounted.
Most people's cars will only have a single power for the blower motor, so you'll have to add one. I used the blower motor power for the main power, and also have a second wire coming out to trigger the relay for the additional power. The relay comes from under the hood at my secondary positive battery post with a 20A fuse and then runs inside. If you fuse it just where they have it, you can burn your car down with a short. Not really great.
They don't give you any wiring to set up the pressure switch, just a connector and the relay that has to be under the dash. Plan on buying some wire at least of 16 ga to run it. I haven't finished that yet, but its fairly easy, though you need a lot of wire to do a clean install.
I'm not sure where they actually expect you to run the wire for the water valve, but I think it makes the most sense to run it through one of the original heater core holes that they give you rubber plugs to plug.
It says in the directions that the ground must be connected directly to the battery. I don't know the reason for this but I hooked it up this way for now. I may have to convert to the MIL Spec battery post on the negative as well to make it not look janky.
So far...For a "Perfect fit" kit, I sure have had to modify a few things. I also need to ask them if I was supposed to get a glovebox because there isn't one in the box or on the packing list.
