Lower Control arm Tools

Re removing the LCA, I've never needed the fancy tool which clamps the torsion bar so you can knock it backwards. Whatever you do, don't grab the T-bar with vise-grips. Remove the wire circlip at the aft end. There may still be a plastic cap over it to pry out. Remove the LCA pivot nut. Then jam a crowbar between the LCA and K-frame and can easily move it aft to push the T-bar out it's rear hex anchor. Then tap the LCA forward and the T-bar should drop out of the LCA. You can also hit the T-bar pivot bolt on the end since no threads there, but don't mushroom it since that bolt is rare and pricey. BTW, the grease on the T-bar ends is not for sliding motion, just to prevent corrosion. They found that need after just a few years when the earliest ones were open, which allowed salt-mush to pack in the hex in the rusty north, to bad effect. The correct rubber boots are pricey. I used a polyurethane boot from Energy Suspension on my A and C body (different sizes). I've used a pickle fork to remove the lower ball joint shaft. You should replace the boot, even if re-using the ball-joint. I use poly there too.

If the rubber is degraded, the LCA bushing innards may push out easy with a shop press. You can then get the inner shell off the bolt on a bench, using a hacksaw, Dremel wheel, and prying, or press it out if you can rig fittings. To remove the inner shell, I scored the outer lip with a Dremel wheel to cut thru the fold, then folded it inward with a hammer and punch. Don't use the Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing is still being sold. I think they discontinued it after reading the many fusses here that it was dangerous since wouldn't secure the LCA from sliding aft and can't rely on the thin T-bar wire C-clip.