Dash Harness Repair

Last winter I made new wiring for my 65 coronet.
I wanted to make some changes and up date things.
This is a list of some of the things done.

Wires colors and size (gauge) are all the same as factory.

Factory wiring diagram is mostly correct except for the changes I wanted to make. Drew new diagrams.

Engine bay wiring made to look more like the factory. Hid the head light relays under the battery.
The headlights have High and low relays that take power via a parallel tap into the Alt wire going to the battery.

Engine bay wiring is all new wire, mostly new connectors.

Alternator out put wire has 14 gauge fuse link at the starter silonoid.

A 14 gauge fusible link feeds the bulk head and inside the car.

65 Amp Alternator is now a dual field

Voltage regulator that looks original but is solid state.

The horn silonoid has a parallel tap in to the Alt 16ga wire. No fuse.

The Blue (run ) wire to the Alt field has a parallel tap to power the HEI and Coil.

Ballest restor is just for looks, solid wire buy pass

HEI mounted on a Ford E-coil, used instead of mopar ecu

Working on the under dash.

New blade style fuzes will replace the original glass fuzes.

The new fuze box will be in the glove box , when AC is installed. Under the dash until then.

Update so factor Ac can be installed.

Wiring to the blower motor for the high speed will have a relay.

The magnet clutch for the AC compressor will have a relay.

All new wires under the dash, also new plastic connectors.

Replaced the dash circuit board with a new Mr Heater board 12/22

Adding a trunk release and trunk light.

Dual Relays to the power top.
Volt gauge replace amp gauge. Wire colors need to be reversed wire conecton the same.

Bought a new rear H&H wiring harness.

Going to make a a plug in emergency. flasher that bolts in to the dash. Using a 1966 Ford bronco switch. Need plastic plugs where the steering column plugs in.

Lots of work!

How did you convert your ballast resistor? I want to install a hidden MSD system.