Define low current. You need to measure it, then post up your results. Add them to mine which I've posted previously.
My definition was that the current is lower or higher relative to the circuit wiring. That includes the control device, which at least in the mechanical versions, actually has three positions. The third one is through resistor.
The only reason to increase the battery wires (R6A, and the A1 wires) isif items are running when the engine is not running. That will cause (a) the circuit to see longer, more continuous loads (b) the battery to get get drawn down further and more frequently. The latter will then result in higher charging rates for any given size battery. In short, the original wiring strategy doesn't really suit electric fans, HEI, big stereo amps, or electric winches. The Heavy duty fleet option wiring splits the battery recharging load in the engine bay, as does the standard '75and '76 A-body arrangements. The heavy duty options to go with rear window grid also splits off the battery rechaging load. These all used heavier wiring, sometimes two fusible link locations, and a heavier battery.
Given a power supply with a fixed voltage, the recharge rate depends on the battery state of charge and temperature. This is the basic situation that has to be dealt with whenever recharging with an alternator. Its why one should not use the alternator to recharge a dead or nearly dead battery unless there is no other choice.
[URL]https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/charging-battery-with-alternator-warning.424783/[/URL]
