Strut rod bushings

Bookmarked. Very useful post. I didn't know that strut rods varied over the years. I used the Moog 2-part strut bushings in my 1964 & 65 A-body and 1965 C-body. Didn't know there were various Moog PN's. I bought PN's listed on rockauto for each car. Seems I overtightened one on my 1965 Dart, trying to get the cotter pin hole past the washer (couldn't), since I found the rubber bushing split a year later despite not even driving that car. I find from post 16 that it has no hole for a cotter pin, just a jam nut. I recall a cotter pin and castle nut on my long-ago 1969 Dart and my C-body. I replaced the worn bushings in my 1969 with the 1-part one, which was very challenging to press into the hole so was thrilled to later find the 2-part one. Time to revisit on all my Mopars.

You don't want to move the LCA back since that takes away from caster, and we need all the caster we can get for radial tires. You want the lower ball-joint as far forward as possible and the upper ball-joint aft to gain caster. I have seen after-market length-adjustable struts, which I recall have a Heim joint at the front instead of bushings. My 1985 M-B 300D has instead a rear "guide-rod" which pushes on the LCA instead of pulls (I've seen the Mopar part termed "drag strut"). The M-B one has a length adjuster (like tie-rod). I think the pivot point on the K-frame is similarly a rubber bushing (behind steel shell) since I've read it can fail.