Looking for more pep off the line
Yes, I never swapped the cam. I probably will in the future
I heard a couple of guys dis that cam, but IMO, that size of cam, like all cams, runs best with the cylinder pressure matched to it.
Just to compare;
I ran a 223/230/110 cam in my 367, for four summers, at Scrs from 11.3 down to 10.7, and that was/is my all time favorite cam. There is only one thing you need to know; she needs an overdrive, so you can run a decent rear gear, for a dynamite zero to 60 mph pull; and still cruise 65/70 mph at a decent low rpm.
I ran that 223/110 cam at pressures from 185 to almost 200psi, and with several different manual transmissions, several different rear ends, and ultimately with a GV-overdrive.
Man! that thing pulled hard.
When that cam dropped lobes, I replaced it with the next bigger cam, a 230/238/110 from the same manufacturer; and then spent the rest of the summer trying to get the bottom-end back. But it was gone. So I bought another set of gears for my trans with 16% more torque multiplication in First gear; badaboom!
To this day, I fondly remember that 223 cam.
The point I want to make is that EVERY time you replace a cam, with one that closes the intake valve later, with no other changes, your engine will lose cylinder pressure which manifests as a loss of low-rpm power. To get it back, the pressure has to be brought back up. Or, the workaround is; more stall and/or more rear gear.
On the street, increasing the stall, is not always the best answer, like if you already have one over 3000rpm.
On the street, increasing the rear gear much beyond 3.55s affects your touring ability.
If hiway touring is part of your life, then overdrive should be also.
But, with the cam you have, you shouldn't have to worry about any of this, any time soon.
