Digging for info - front drum explosion on 727s

My understanding is if the "dry hop" happens to be not-so-dry & You hit it, if the tires spin unloaded for a split second then hook, the stator sprag goes from freewheeling to locked in the juice wheel...like neutral dropping it..it may not explode, but could be damaged & just seize, and the converter is junk.
Also, depending on the condition of the surface (& I'm no Pro Drag Racer here), some have told Me the dry-hop messes up the surface of the slick. They state the best traction is rolling out & backing of before they can "bite", and the first "bite" is the best, a dry-hop wastes it. You Pro's here can chime in & correct Me (or argue, :p) if You have a different experience/opinion.
Hoosier has told me not to do dry hops. They say the heat created by the burnout activates a chemical in the rubber and brings it to the surface. This chemical reacts to the glue on the track and increases traction. The dry hop removes the chemical from the surface of the tire and defeats the purpose of the burnout.
Dry hops were standard back in the 60's and 70's when tire technology was not good and it was a way for the driver to confirm that the burnout was effective.