Please help!! 1971 340 duster having major ignition wiring headaches.

Your voltage readings sound ?? partly because I don't know what right side and left side means. One side of the ballast is power from the ignition switch, the other side goes to the coil

WITH KEY IN RUN the switch side should be nearly same as battery. It rarely is, because the harness often has voltage drop.

The coil side of the ballast should show maybe 6-10V +/-. If it shows full battery, it means the coil is not drawing current, is open, or not getting ground through the box, or the box is not powered or defective

With the key in "start" and cranking, the coil + should be near full battery and in no case below 10V

HAVE YOU checked for spark and spark quality? "Rig" a solid core wire (can be low voltage wire if propped away from metal) from the coil tower to a spark gap tester, or a good plug gapped wide. Crank engine USING THE KEY. You should get snappy hot blue sparks at least 3/8 and typically 1/2" long
When I say left and right of ballast, I’m just saying which side looking at it directly from the grill of the car.

With the key in run position
One side of the ballast reads 9.8V
The other side reads 9.5V
The +coil shows 9.8
When I turn to crank it hoes down to 4.7V not up to 12V

Ran a jump wire from battery to plus coil and she fires right up and idles well.
Just can’t figure out why I can’t get 12V to the coil or why the ballast is showing the voltage it is