Project "Chihuahua" '65 Formula S Restoration "Estilo Mexicano"

Update: I did some testing on the fuel and temp gauges. I did not know if the source voltage on the wires that connected to the sensors would be 12 volts or 5 volts. With a voltmeter connected to the end of the sensor wires (on the sensor end) and ignition "on", I found a pulsing volt reading with a maximum of 5 volts in both cases (kind of like a heartbeat-voltage varied up and down). Turned off ignition.

Then I simply grounded the end of each sensor wire (one by one), then turned the ignition to "on". In both cases, the needle rapidly rose to the maximum "full" or "hot" indication. Then I turned the key off and disconnected.

I tapped the vehicle fuel tank with the palm of my hand, sounded pretty hollow (empty?). I added between 4 and 5 gallons gasoline that I had stashed in a spare gas can in the garage. Turned the key "on". The needle slowly began to creep up on the fuel gauge, but it stopped on the very first line, which would mark empty in most circumstances. When I add more gasoline later at the station, I hope to see the needle go farther up to the full mark or thereabouts.

Then I primed the factory AFB carb with a little gasoline and fired up the old 273 (actually now a 318 block thanks to a previous owner swap). I warmed her up to an indicated 190 degrees on the aftermarket mechanical coolant temp gauge. The factory gauge on the dash rose correspondingly and read about 1/3 or the way up. That should work!

In conclusion, thanks to the replacement circuit board, the dash background lights now work and so does the turn signal green arrow, the high beam indicator, the coolant temp gauge, and hopefully the fuel level gauge. Oil pressure idiot light probably works too, but the sensor is not installed (due to the mechanical gauge line taking its place).

I suppose eventually I will install a volt meter to replace the bypassed factory ammeter gauge. Not sure where to measure the voltage yet, at the battery terminals or somewhere more remote?