Post 20 shows that even in factory UCA's, the bushing holes don't always perfectly align. They probably don't have to since the rubber can accommodate slight misalignment of bushing axes. I agree is is best that the holes align, so the brackets on the frame don't see a bending force as the UCA moves up and down. The manufacturer must surely align the bushing sleeves on a welding jig since I can't imagine how else they would set it up for welding. Perhaps the misalignment comes from how the bushing is pressed in and/or its concentricity. OP could hold a straight edge against the sleeves to see if welded concentrically. Regardless, they will likely work fine on the car.
Thanks for post 26 since I had considered those fancy UCA's with easy caster adjustment. Re what happens when a control arm fails, I investigated that 10 yrs ago after posting a temp fix on my 1984 M-B to drive it home which resulted in flames from web forum "experts". Usually, control arms (and ball joints) fail at low speed when turning sharp, such as parking lots, since when they see the highest loads. The wheel usually splays outward, but you can still steer and brake. The front may drop if that control arm supports the spring (LCA in our Mopars). Early 2000's M-B LCA often fail by rusting thru from the insides, with no signs until they snap. Those were formed from rolled flat steel, while my 1984 has solid forged LCA's. Worst failures I've seen on the web are in Tesla Model S/X until ~2017 when they redesigned the aluminum suspension parts. China forced a recall, but Tesla balked for U.S., claiming "specific to Chinese drivers or Chinese roads", though they commonly break elsewhere and often the "whompy wheel" damages body panels or even loss of control (current death lawsuits).
