Help spec'ing out a new small block

-Boosted- said
I am posting this here because I only want racer level input and not what someone is running in their street/strip car.

I want to start planning out my next engine (and yes I know I haven't run my current combo down the track yet) and only want to do it once. What I am looking for is advice, suggestions and recommendations based on experience for this build. This engine will be a naturally aspirated, small block with no power adders. Plan is to run alcohol or e85 for fuel, leaning towards e85. Goal is low to mid 9's in a 2800 lb (or less) back half car.

1 - Block (which block should I go with?)
2 - Heads (Indy, Victor, W2 etc...)
3 - Rotating assembly (bore, stroke, piston type domed or flat top)
4 - Cam will be solid roller (ballpark lift and duration)

Option 2 would be to get the Indy 360-1 Head Kit and use my current short block which I am prepared to do if I don't go with a whole new build.

[URL]https://www.indyheads.com/product/head-kit-sb-chrysler-rect-port/[/URL]

Thanks in advance!

Bill

I’m not a fan of alcohol based fuel IF you can keep engine coolant temperature in check, which means 160 is as hot as needs to be.

Start with a Ritter block.

Ignore the feeling you need a 4 inch or longer stroke. You don’t. 3.79 is the MAX stroke I would use. If you buy a Ritter block (or maybe the Callie’s block which is said to be based on the R3 if they ever make it) you can easily go to a 4.200 bore. That would give you 421 CID.

For 421 inches you’ll need to be in the mid to high 270’s at .050 and as much lift as your valve gear will take.

Spend the money on Ti intake valves at the least.

I don’t like the big exhaust valve Indy uses, but unless you want to weld up new heads you are stuck with it.

Find a tunnel ram. Use two 1050’s.

Find an old Milodon Supper Stock pan. They don’t make them any more. They are the BEST pan for a chassis car there is. To argue that is foolish. Nothing comes close.

14:1, maybe a skosh more. And buy a nice piston with either .043 or 1mm rings. 1/16 rings are for tractors.

With the right heads and tuning you should be able to shift that at 7500 all day long.

Even at 1.35 TQ/CID at 7500 you‘d be making over 700 hp. Easy. Plus the higher rpm lets you use deeper gears.

Don’t forget a GOOD crank scraper. And windage tray.