67 Barracuda Heavy Electric Load
While the Spal products are good quality, the small fan you have will never come close flowing as much air as the mechanical Mopar clutch or thermal fan's capacity to move air with the right shroud and fan spacing. Period.
Any high amp draw accessories, are best fed from a dedicated 12v distribution lug (the starter relay stud is a great source), fed by a fused or circuit breaker protected (added) cable from the alternator directly to the 12v distribution point.
Each high amp accessory should be fed using relays and provided with its own ground wire back to the battery or negative ground contact near it. I run a like size ground from my alternator case back to the battery. Current flows through both cables to form a circuit, and proper sized ground returns are often overlooked.
I altered both my Mopars this way, but still wanted more amp output at idle. I bolted in a rewound CS144 with a heavy duty bridge rectifier in my '70 E-Body to have 115 amps at a low idle and up to 240+ amp output at a fast idle. The accessories I have don't draw that much amperage in total, but they do draw more than the what the Mopar alternators are capable of producing at idle.
Even the Denso's don't put out much more that the Mopar alternators at idle. They are better, but not ideal if you want high load accessories like dual fans, big fuel pumps, A/C and big stereos.
I painted my CS144 matte black and no one has ever noticed it is not the stock Mopar alternator. There are many ways to skin a cat, and several are posted prior to the way I skinned mine.
Mopar alternators are known for notoriously low idle output at idle. Add the bulkhead's propensity to heat up, melt and catch on fire when anything more than even the stock amperage loads are flowing through it, and it is a thing. And, it can easily be addressed and the issues remediated using the information posted in this thread.
While the Spal products are good quality, the small fan you have will never come close flowing as much air as the mechanical Mopar clutch or thermal fan's capacity to move air with the right shroud and fan spacing. Period.
Any high amp draw accessories, are best fed from a dedicated 12v distribution lug (the starter relay stud is a great source), fed by a fused or circuit breaker protected (added) cable from the alternator directly to the 12v distribution point.
Each high amp accessory should be fed using relays and provided with its own ground wire back to the battery or negative ground contact near it. I run a like size ground from my alternator case back to the battery. Current flows through both cables to form a circuit, and proper sized ground returns are often overlooked.
I altered both my Mopars this way, but still wanted more amp output at idle. I bolted in a rewound CS144 with a heavy duty bridge rectifier in my '70 E-Body to have 115 amps at a low idle and up to 240+ amp output at a fast idle. The accessories I have don't draw that much amperage in total, but they do draw more than the what the Mopar alternators are capable of producing at idle.
Even the Denso's don't put out much more that the Mopar alternators at idle. They are better, but not ideal if you want high load accessories like dual fans, big fuel pumps, A/C and big stereos.
I painted my CS144 matte black and no one has ever noticed it is not the stock Mopar alternator. There are many ways to skin a cat, and several are posted prior to the way I skinned mine.
