You may have somehow developed reverse polarity in the distributor pickup circuit. AKA if you reverse the two pickup wires, this changes the timing relative to where the rotor is pointing to the cap contacts. This has become known as "rotor phasing." You can search that phrase, there are all kinds of videos, etc talking about that.
Your fancy pushbutton (and why did you do that) may cause a DIFFERENT problem
"The way things work."
In the old days, when you twisted the key to "start" the RUN circuit went COLD. This is true of Mopar, Ford, and GM. There HAS to be some power to the ignition to get it to start. With GM and Ford, this power was sent to the ignition via the "IGN" contact on the starter solenoid. But Mopar did this in the switch. They are IGN1 and IGN2. IGN1 is the "run" contact of the ignition switch, and IS HOT ONLY in the "run" position. The powers underhood loads like ignition, VR IGN terminal, alternator field, electric choke if used, etc etc.
Again, that power goes DEAD during start.
When you twist the key to "start" TWO circuits are alive. The "S" start circuit which engages the start relay and starter, and the IGN2 "bypass" circuit, which feeds hot 12V direct to the coil + for a better spark during starting.
When you got the idea for a push button, that no longer works. This means that your IGN power goes through the ballast during starting, and ALSO all the stuff such as the cluster etc is still powered in start, and that the coil does not get as much power during start for a good hot spark.
