1968 Valiant fiberglass doors.

I looked when we painted my car and noone made a door with the frame and !I HAD TO HAVE! that 'production' look. I did buy 'glass doors from a local buddy but they needed so much finesse to look 'real' I reasoned it wasn't fair to burn-up my buddy/painters time. I estimated the 2 doors would loose about 85lbs over the gutted and lexan stockers. My 8.50cert car with the cage being moly was 2530 without me. One seat, no chute, !MILD STEEL 2x3! steel floor below driver, 4 link with ARB moly 25.2 tubes in floor, Dana, '440' with 2 4150's, 52lbs 12v battery alternator, rack and C/O front, double beadlock rears. Basically I feel if i tried doing it all over with ladder-bar and round tube back-half and stock floor 8.50 cert and smarter tube routing, I could loose another 60lbs or using only critical tubing. I can loose more than 50 in a smarter electrical

I looked when we painted my car and noone made a door with the frame and !I HAD TO HAVE! that 'production' look. I did buy 'glass doors from a local buddy but they needed so much finesse to look 'real' I reasoned it wasn't fair to burn-up my buddy/painters time. I estimated the 2 doors would loose about 85lbs over the gutted and lexan stockers. My 8.50cert car with the cage being moly was 2530 without me. One seat, no chute, !MILD STEEL 2x3! steel floor below driver, 4 link with ARB moly 25.2 tubes in floor, Dana, '440' with 2 4150's, 52lbs 12v battery alternator, rack and C/O front, double beadlock rears. Basically I feel if i tried doing it all over with ladder-bar and round tube back-half and stock floor 8.50 cert and smarter tube routing, I could loose another 60lbs or using only critical tubing. I can loose more than 50 in a smarter electrical system.
I'll be SBM, TF904, chrome moly 8.50 cage, Dana 60, chrome moly rear clip and 4 link, lithium battery, alternator and a oil accumulator. I'll use lexan windows if I can get them. You think that I can get to 2600 lbs without driver?